1.Removethresholds and baseboards before you measure the room to see how much flooringto purchase. Your square footage will be the length times the width of the roomplus the area of any nooks and closets. Total the number of square feet and add10 percent to allow for trimming.
2.Strip theexisting flooring if necessary. If your existing floor surface is solid andfairly smooth you may choose to skip this step. If you remove carpet or oldvinyl, make sure any deposits of flooring adhesive are removed as well. You mayneed to use a power scraper and citrus-based solvent to get old vinyl flooradhesive off. Go over the corners and crevices with a sander to remove anyadhesive that remains.
3.Use a patchingcompound to fill in any cracks and holes in your subfloor. Work the compoundinto the hole with a putty knife and level it off. Once you have a smooth, evensurface, sweep and mop it thoroughly. The smoother the subfloor, the better vinylplanks will bond to it. Finally, lay down a coat of primer to seal the subflooragainst moisture.
4.Lay out theroom. Choose the wall that is the main line of sight in the room (usually thisis the wall opposite the room's main entrance). Lay out a line of planks alongthis wall and use a T-square to make sure the planks are parallel to it. Mark aline on the floor using a chalk line or felt-tip marker (it's going to becovered up, so permanent marker is okay). The idea is to "square off"the room so your new flooring is as attractive as possible.
5.Starting in onecorner, peel off the backing of self-adhesive vinyl plank flooring. Be verycareful to line up the first plank exactly with your line guide since all theremaining planks will key off the first. Press down firmly to make the adhesivebond to the subfloor. Lay a line of complete planks end to end the length ofthe room. Use a small notch trowel to spread a layer of adhesive for regularvinyl plank flooring. Vinyl flooring adhesives are product specific so use onlyQDM's recommended adhesive and follow their instructions for use. A genericadhesive may not bond the vinyl planks to the floor properly.
6.Cut a vinylplank in half to begin your second line of planks. Use a vinyl tile cutter(recommended) or a utility knife and T-square to cut the plank at a 90-degreeangle to its length. Use this half plank to start the next line. Staggering thevinyl planks creates a more authentic wood appearance. Alternate each line witha full-length and a half-length plank. At the opposite end of the room you willneed to install partial planks to finish off each plank line. Measure eachspace carefully and cut the pieces the same way.
7.Locate any gapsbetween planks. Don't worry about finding gaps, because there are always smalluneven spots in a floor. Use a putty knife to fill gaps with wood putty andwipe away any excess.
8.Use a floorroller to ensure all the planks are firmly bonded to the floor. Replacethresholds and baseboards or cove molding to finish up installing your vinylplank flooring.
After the Install
For a minimum of24 hours after your new vinyl floor is installed, don’t walk on the seamedareas.
To allow theadhesives to setup properly, keep the room at 68° F or greater for at least 2 days.
Ventilate thearea well for 48 to 72 hours.
Don’t rely onfurniture or appliance wheels and don’t drag your appliances back in place overyour new floor! Lay down a piece of thin plywood and move the appliance overthe floor on the wood, or use furniture sliders made specifically for thispurpose.
Don’t mop yourfloor for about five days. The adhesives need time to cure.
Check thecondition of all the casters or rollers on your furniture before setting themon your floor. Replace any worn ones.
Protect your vinyl floor bycovering the legs of furniture with felt protectors.